Sunday, March 7, 2010

Martenitsa Madness

March 1 came around again, and we were all too eager to welcome our grandmother--that is baba marta! On the weeks leading up to March 1st, the streets of Bulgaria are covered with stalls where people sell the Martenitsa bracelets (modeled below). Then on March 1st, Bulgarians are smiling and wishing everyone a "chesita baba marta"--or happy grandmother March! You give the gift of a Martenitsa to your friends, and then wait for spring. Baba Marta herself is described as a grumpy old lady whose moods change very rapidly--very similar to our saying that "March roars in like a lion and out like a lamb." Only here, rather than jungle/farm animals, our weather seems to be controlled by a menopausal old woman.

Looking carefully at the bracelets, you will see that they are only red and white--although some fancy ones also are adorned with beads. The red symbolizes life and passion (it is the male string) while the white symbolizes purity (obviously related to the woman). Together, they are supposed to remind us of the cycle of life--again evoked by the coming of spring.

You are only supposed to take the martenitsas off when you see a sign of spring. For example, if you find a tree budding, you tie your martenitza to the branch. However, if you see a stork you are considered to be very lucky. Some Bulgarians put their martenitsas under a rock when they see a sign of spring. When they dig it up the next day, they look carefully at the insect closest to the bracelet to determine their luck for the next year. A larva or worm means health and success--also the same fate if you see an ant. However, if you see a spider--you are in trouble...you may not have luck, happiness, or success over the entire next year. No word on what happens if you find a snake.

And here are a few observations from a foreigner about this tradition. First see below:

















Now noticing my wrists, you can sense how every adult in the country looks semi-ridiculous. On March 1st, we happened to have an extremely serious discipline meeting happening at school--but there we all were, including our Head, with bracelets from wrists to elbows.

Now, knowing that we cannot take these off until we see a sign of spring, you can imagine how frustrated we were on Monday morning to wake up only to find a random ten inches of snow...and it hasn't stopped. The forecast is bleak in Bulgaria--with snow until March 24th...so one can only assume that baba marta may need a dose of hormone replacement therapy and a big glass of wine!